A brief reflection of Jun Takahashi’s Undercover Women’s Spring/Summer runway, courtesy of the deep mist collection: The music is ethereal and reminds me of mourning the loss of a royal fantasy character. “Looming” is the word that comes to mind. The fabrics are layered with sheer coverings and the music is orchestral. Sheer and floating in the air. The garments drag but never touch the ground, they flow.
The models wear face coverings so thin they add nothing but a hue to skin. The skirts become increasingly tubular and speckled with black. The black specks turn to gold flakes. The gold flakes turn to butterflies. Terrariums, pulsing lights. Like a breathing house, like the earth.


I find it curious that Takahashi’s affection toward butterflies manifested in such a display. It was magical and interesting to learn about the connection he made with the loss of his grandmother to the white butterfly. He views the animal as a spirit of comfort, and at the time of her passing, the spirit of his grandmother.
I question the choice of using live butterflies, especially considering their movement was minimal. I would love to read the apology letter Takahashi wrote to PETA. His choice to release them to the wild was also in poor taste, as captive bred butterflies can affect local insect populations with disease.
Live animal use and skins used in high fashion continues to be a discouraging conversation. I’d like to educate myself on how this could be done right, in good faith. Perhaps I’ll research other designers and collections that have tried to do this. The ethics of using animals for their likeness. To take advantage of their beauty at their expense. How can design be in conjunction with conservancy?

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